Key takeaways
- Length, width and height: Measure wall to wall for length, and the front-to-back depth from the back wall to the front of the existing apron. The common size is 60 by 30 inches, but 60 by 32 and 60 by 36 exist.
- Drain side: Stand facing the tub from the room. If the drain is on your left, you need a left-hand drain tub; on your right, a right-hand drain tub. Some makers sell center-drain models.
- Apron style: An alcove tub with a finished front apron is the usual choice when the front shows. Skirted and unskirted types differ in how they install.
- Wall studs and flange: The tub’s flange sits against the studs. Check the maker’s rough-in drawing for stud spacing and flange height.
- Access path: Measure doorways, hallways and stairs, particularly for one-piece cast iron tubs.
The best replacement bathtub is the one that matches your existing alcove opening and drain side, and for most homeowners that means a 60-inch acrylic or Americast alcove tub from a major maker such as Kohler, American Standard or Delta, with enameled steel as the budget option and cast iron as the premium, heavy option. A replacement tub has to fit the space first, because moving plumbing or framing quickly outweighs any difference in material. This guide covers fit, materials and the main models so you can shortlist before talking to a plumber.
Our top picks
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Measure Before You Shop
- Length, width and height: Measure wall to wall for length, and the front-to-back depth from the back wall to the front of the existing apron. The common size is 60 by 30 inches, but 60 by 32 and 60 by 36 exist.
- Drain side: Stand facing the tub from the room. If the drain is on your left, you need a left-hand drain tub; on your right, a right-hand drain tub. Some makers sell center-drain models.
- Apron style: An alcove tub with a finished front apron is the usual choice when the front shows. Skirted and unskirted types differ in how they install.
- Wall studs and flange: The tub’s flange sits against the studs. Check the maker’s rough-in drawing for stud spacing and flange height.
- Access path: Measure doorways, hallways and stairs, particularly for one-piece cast iron tubs.
At a Glance
| Model or line | Material | Best for | Key stated traits | Limits |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| American Standard Cadet | Americast or enameled steel | Standard 60-inch alcove replacement | The maker lists left and right drain options and several sizes | Basic styling |
| American Standard Princeton | Americast and acrylic variants | Value-oriented replacements | The maker lists 60-inch alcove sizes | Check material by model number |
| Kohler Bellwether | Enameled cast iron or acrylic | Heat retention and durable enamel | The maker lists several dimensions and drain sides | Cast iron is heavy |
| Kohler Archer | Cast iron or acrylic | A more traditional look | The maker lists apron and skirted styles | Higher tier |
| Delta Classic 400 | High-gloss acrylic | Light, easy-to-handle option | The maker describes a reinforced acrylic tub with a smooth surface | Verify exact dimensions |
| Bootz Aloha or similar steel tubs | Enameled steel | Budget renovations | Makers describe lightweight steel construction | Colder feel, noisier filling |
| Swan, Lasco or Aquatic acrylic tubs | Acrylic or fiberglass | Basic, low-cost replacements | Makers list common sizes | Thinner walls in entry lines |
Material Choices for Replacement
Acrylic
Acrylic is the most common replacement choice. It is light, easy to carry through tight spaces, and warm to the touch. Thickness and reinforcement vary by brand and tier, so compare warranties.
Americast and composite
American Standard describes Americast as a molded composite bonded to enameled steel, designed to be quieter and more heat-retentive than steel alone. It is an in-between option when you want more heft than acrylic without full cast iron weight.
Enameled steel
Steel is a budget route. It is lighter than cast iron and the enamel is hard, though it can chip and tends to lose heat faster.
Cast iron
Cast iron is the heavy-duty premium choice. Because replacement jobs often involve second-floor bathrooms and tight stairwells, weight can become a major cost and logistics issue.
Installation Considerations
- Surround and wall work: Removing an old tub often requires cutting or removing the wall tile or surround. Budget time for new wall material.
- Plumbing: A same-size, same-drain replacement is easiest. Moving the drain or valve location may involve floor and wall work.
- Floor support: Ask a contractor about subfloor condition, especially with cast iron.
- Drain and overflow kit: Confirm whether it is included.
- Leveling and support: Many makers require a mortar bed or support feet. Follow the installation instructions closely to maintain the warranty.
- Permits and codes: Local codes may apply. Hire a licensed plumber where required.
Budget Tiers
| Tier | Typical materials | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | Enameled steel, entry acrylic or fiberglass | Basic shapes, lighter weight, shorter warranties |
| Mid-range | Americast, thicker acrylic, cast iron alcove models | Better finish durability and warranty from major makers |
| Premium | Heavy cast iron, solid surface, specialty shapes | Longer warranties and design options, more installation effort |
Pick X If
| If you want | Pick |
|---|---|
| A like-for-like swap at a moderate cost | American Standard Cadet or Princeton alcove tub |
| Better heat retention and a solid feel | Kohler Bellwether in cast iron or an Americast model |
| The lightest option for stairs or tight access | Delta Classic 400 or another acrylic alcove tub |
| The lowest practical cost | Enameled steel or entry acrylic |
| A traditional look with a skirt or finished apron | Kohler Archer or similar apron-front tub |
Alternatives to Consider
- Tub liners: A liner fits over an existing tub. Makers present this as a faster route, although it requires a good match to the tub’s shape and a professional installer.
- Refinishing: A professional refinish can renew a worn surface. Durability depends on prep and the product used.
- Tub-to-shower conversion: Consider this if the tub is rarely used. A conversion changes plumbing, so plan accordingly.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size bathtub do I need for replacement?
Most alcove replacements are 60 inches long, 30 to 32 inches wide and about 14 to 20 inches tall, but your space may differ. Measure the existing opening and match the drain side. Check the maker’s rough-in sheet for exact dimensions.
Can I replace a bathtub myself?
Some experienced DIYers do, but the job involves plumbing, framing and wall finishing. Mistakes can lead to leaks and water damage. A licensed plumber or contractor can reduce risk, and local codes may require one.
Which material is easiest to install?
Acrylic is typically the lightest and easiest to carry and set. Steel is also light but may need more support. Cast iron is the hardest because of weight.
Do I need to replace the wall surround too?
Often yes, or at least part of it. Removing the old tub tends to damage the wall near the flange, and the new tub’s flange may sit differently. Plan for tile or panel work.
What is the difference between left and right drain?
The drain side is determined when you face the tub from the room. A left-hand drain sits on your left. Ordering the wrong side can force plumbing changes, so confirm before purchase.
How do I know if replacement is necessary?
Persistent leaks, soft spots in the floor, deep cracks, or worn-through finish may point to replacement. Cosmetic wear may be solved by refinishing or a liner. A plumber can help assess hidden damage.
