Bench projects woodworking

These plans for free benches can help you construct an appropriate bench for your space at home or on your deck or patio. Once you’re done, you’ll have a top-quality bench that costs lower than the bench you’d buy from the furniture retailer.

The bench plans are free and include everything you require to plan and complete your bench project. Blueprints, step by step directions, cut lists diagrams, and lists of materials will guide you through this woodworking task and you’ll build your bench within a couple of hours.

There’s a broad selection of bench plans that include benches that have backs and with no backs. They’re constructed with various woods as well as some with paint, while other benches are stained. With the many options available I’m certain you’ll find the ideal bench design for your home.

Making a real woodworker’s workbench

There are many instructional videos on the construction of “workbenches” that vary in terms of price and sophistication However, most are just tables. They’re perfect as craft tables or assembly tables but they’re not workbenches designed for woodworkers.

How do you define a bench?

A woodworker’s bench isn’t an item of furniture, it’s an instrument for holding work. It’s not an object you put items upon, but an instrument to hold your work. A worktable may be equipped with a machinist’s vise that is attached to its top, a bench for woodworkers is designed to fit several different working tools, like benches, planing stops and hold fasts as well as board jacks. It generally, there are two vise for woodworkers that is integrated within its construction.

A workbench must be a bit heavy so to ensure that it isn’t able to move beneath your feet while you work and strong enough to ensure that it won’t rip itself to pieces in the face of the pressures that are imposed on it. It’s not a long time of cutting a piece of wood or hammering a chisel to cause the worktable constructed of nail-nailed 2x4s to fall apart. Traditional bench designs employ mortise and tenon joinery that is durable and rigid, but isn’t suitable for a beginner woodworker without the bench.

The design

This instructional video shows you how to construct, using simple tools and readily available lumber the bench that serves the majority of the functions of a traditional workbench for woodworkers. I began with a design by Asa Christiana that was featured in the second season of finewoodworking.com’s video series Getting Started in Woodworking. The design plans can be found through their site.

The bench I’ll be describing is different from the two in a few areas that are most important, one of that being the top. Allen’s top was constructed of three sheets made of 3/4″ medium density fiberboard (MDF) which was then topped and trimmed by 1/8″ hardboard. Christiana’s top is just 2 layers of” MDF. My top is made of two layers of” MDF edged with 1/2″ oak and finished off with 1 1/2″ thickness edge-glued wood Ikea countertop. The top I built is much more expensive in terms of time and money than Allen’s or Christiana’s. If you’re looking to construct something cheap and quick I’d suggest Allen’s design over Christiana’s. The use of a hardboard can significantly increase the longevity for the most expensive models.

The core of the design is a joinery system made of threaded rods that provide plenty of rigidity and strength. The base is made up of stretchers of 2×4 and 4×4 joined by dowels and rods for truss threaded. When screws are tightened on each of the rods, the entire structure is pulled together , creating the rigid structure.

I’m a novice at woodworking. I’m making progress as I go I’m recording what I progress with the intention of helping other beginners. In the spectrum from simple to more deliberate, my approach is towards the deliberate. If you’ve got enough experience and confidence in employing techniques that can be more efficient in time take advantage of it. The methods I’m using are the ones I believed to be most likely to be the least risky and not the ones that will make a product in fastest time or with the least expense. It’s evident there were a lot of errors, spent a lot of time working on projects that I later realized was not necessary as well as in a lot instances, I employed different methods at the end than what I used in the beginning. This is all results of my learning. I thought it was more beneficial to illustrate my mistakes and then how I fixed the mistakes, rather than provide the instructions which gave the impression that everything worked flawlessly.

The bench is constructed from quality construction lumber, which you can purchase at any lumber or home center yard. I built mine using the same wood. There’s no reason to believe that you shouldn’t choose better wood. Wood that is better quality will cost more but you don’t require to use a lot of it.

If you opt for construction lumber, you should the lumber that is kiln dried. Green lumber can warp on you when it dries. Sort through the stacks and select the straightest, most clean pieces. Most of the time, the boards that are lying around on the pile are ones which other people have left behind when they went through the piles looking for better. Prepare to move them away and dig into the more desirable selection. Make sure to be nice be sure to return everything when you’re finished.

To be the base

The base is comprised of four legs and four short stretchers and four stretchers that are long. The legs are made of 4×4’s. They’re approximately three feet long. the stretchers are made from 2×4’s. The short stretchers are 2 feet long, while the long stretchers are four feet long. It is possible to make two legs and both a short and long stretcher from the standard length of stock, so you’ll need:

• Two 4×4’s
• Four 2×4’s

Furthermore, you’ll require the following: four parts from 3/8″ all-threaded, two feet long, as well as four 3/8″ all-threaded rod, 4 feet long. I purchased four pieces of six-foot length and cut them to size.

To the top spot:

Christiana’s design consists of 3 pieces of MDF Two feet by four-feet shelving, with two 2-feet by five-feet for the top. They can be cut from one 49×97″ panel. Allen’s top consisted of 3 layers made of 3/8″ MDF topped and edged with 1/4″ hardboard.

My top was made from 2 layers made of 3/4″ MDF and an edge-glued oak Ikea Numerar countertop.

A 49×97″ panel of 3/4″ MDF

A 25×73″ panel of 1-1/2″ edge-glued oak

One 1/2×1-1/2″ oak board, six feet long

One 1/2×1-1/2″ oak board, five feet long

One 1/2×1-1/2″ oak board, two feet long

For the application:

If you’re planning to install a vise you’ll require hardwood for the jaws , and you may require some scrap MDF or plywood to build the right thickness for the mounting. For the vises I selected:

2 24″ lengths of 2×8 oak

A 13″ length of oak 2×6

Hardware:

4 3/8″ all-threaded rod” long

4 3/8″ rod with all-threaded thread, 24″ long

32 3/8″ dowels

16 – 3/8″ nuts

16 3/8″ washers

30-1/1/2″ drywall screws

30 2″ Screws for drywall

30 – s-clips

4 – Levelers

And everything else you’ll need to connect the vise to the vices

Note: I’ve taken photos of the lumber lumber leaning on the wall, however placing it in this way could cause it to become warped. Lay it out flat and let it sit for about a week to allow it to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the shop.

Step 2. The Tools

Based on the “Getting started in Woodworking” video it is possible to build this bench using only three basic tools – an electric circular saw, a drill and a hand-held routing machine. However, this isn’t the case.

There are numerous tasks to be completed on this workstation that could be accomplished faster, less time and with greater accuracy, using more advanced tools. If you own an miter saw, table saw as well as a drill press and a table router you must utilize these.

The second is, if you make this with the aid of a drill, circular saw and an hand-held router, you’ll need fixtures and jigs as well as specific bits. There are a few locations where hand tools can make things simpler.

Alongside the drill, circular saw, as well as the router, I also used an electric belt sander, a randomly orbital palm sander and a jigsaw. A screwdriver, a wrench hacksaw, and some various other items.

To drill the hole I purchased an Wolfcraft drill manual. If you believe you are able to make a hole by hand through 3 1/2″ of wood and have the exit holes show up within 1/16″ of the location you wanted you would like it to be, then go for it. It’s not possible.

For the saw , you’ll need the crosscut blade as well as the plywood blade.

To use the router, you’ll require an 3/8″ straight bit as well as an edge guide. the 1/4″- – and 1/8″-radius roundover pieces, as well as a flush-trim piece with at the very least a 1 1/2″ cut length. Bits of this size are only in an 1/4″ collet. Certain routers are capable of making use of various collet sizes. I was foolish enough to purchase one router with only one 1/16″ collet. We’ll talk about it later.

To drill, other than the normal twist bits you’ll require a 3/4″ brad-point bit or 1″ Forstner bit or an 3/4″ Forstner bit, and most of all, several 3/4″ spade bits – or refinish the one you want, and an 3/8″ counter-sink bit.

Also, you’ll require an office desk.

I’m sure If you had a bench then you wouldn’t need to construct an actual workbench. However, you’ll require something to work on even if it’s not as solid or sturdy like a solid bench. The most common option is to place an open-air door on top of some saw horses. The benefit of hollow-core doors is that they are smooth, rigid and affordable. I made use of the folding table along with hollow core doors that I bought to use in a project I was planning.

Step 3. Cutting Guides

If the table is going to be flat and square The cuts have to be square and straight. A table saw is perfect. I don’t own a tablesaw which is why I need an edging guide that can be used with the circular saw. And since I didn’t own one, too I created one. Actually, I made three.

The guides are just like nearly every other guide that has been made by anyone – two pieces of any flat panel material that is suitable -A thin piece which the saw’s shoe is mounted on, and a thicker one with the edge that directs the saw.

My first attempt at creating cutting guides failed. What I got worked well to cut panels, however the guide-strip was too small as well, when it was fully extended to rough-cut the 4×4’s clamp heads were blocked. Then I came up with another. In reality, I created two more so that I could cut one into smaller pieces that were more manageable.

Making the cutting guide

Choose whatever panel products you find convenient. The base needs to be thin while the guide strip should be straight. I employed 3/16″ hardboard as the base, and 1/4″ Ply to make guidestrips.

There are two essential dimensions. The guide strip should not be more than long as the length the saw’s motor is overhanging from to the edges of the shoe, and an inch or two to accommodate the clamps. That’s where I made the error in the first time I tried.

The base must be at least the sum of the width of the strip as well as the distance between an edge to the side of the shoe plus an additional 0.2 inches. using my saw the overhang was 3 1/2″ and I therefore made my guide strip 5 1/2″ wide. The distance an edge to the knife is approximately 4 1/2″ which means that the base must be at minimum 10″ wide. As I was working with the sheet of 24″ large sheet of paper, I cut it across the middle.

I employed the edge of the half-panel that was the factory edge of hardboard as a reference to cut the ply. I was planning to cut a 5 1/2″ strip which my saw cut 4 1/2″ away from the shoe’s edge. I desired to cut the edges of my hardboard to be 10″ to the edge on the ply. This is why I set the combination square at 10″ and employed it to adjust the distance. Tips – If you require two things to be exactly the same length, attempt to not measure them separately. Make use of a mechanical system for determining the distance.

They are typically screwed and glued but it’s glue which holds it in place and screws secure everything as the glue cures. Screwing into the hardboard and 1/4″ ply is a futile exercise and I decided to use glue and made use of two 4×4’s to make long clamps. It could have been simpler if I’d done this prior to cutting rough the 4×4’s but it was a good idea.

The next day, I made use of the 4x4s again to hold them up along their length. Then, I used the saw to cut them in line with the size that the shoes. After that, I cut one the pieces into smaller pieces and I had a usable pair of guidelines for edges.

The base I had originally twelve” wide, and I cut it down to match the saw I was left with a piece of wood about 2″ wide. This was useful for making numerous pads to prevent my clamps from nicking my workpieces.

4. The Basis Step One Cutting the parts to length

The first step in making the workbench is to cut the lumber to length to form the base.

The initial design utilized an MDF base that was wide by 24″ in width and was 48″ long. To build larger than that you’ll need another piece of MDF. I ended up making my own 23×48″.

The original design was taller at 35-1/8″. Their two-layer top was about 1″ thick, which means the legs measured 33-5/8″ long. I’d like to have to have a height of 35″ however, I’m using a roof that’s three” thick. My basement flooring isn’t level and I’m using levelers that can be adjustable from 3/8″ to 1 1/2″. Also, I’d like legs that are three-quarters of” long. (If you’re not using levelers, your legs need precise lengths. Levelers provide around 3/4″ of adjustment, therefore the precision needed is not as important.

The components:

• four short stretchers – 2×4, length 16″ (23″ – 2 x 3-1/2″)
• four long stretchers -2×4, length 41″ (48″ – 2 x 3-1/2″)
• four legs – 4×4, length 31-3/4″ (35 – 3 x 3/4″ – 1″)

Draw on each 4×4 precisely which part will be both legs. With the 36″ wide piece wood there’s a little leeway in determining exactly where the three 33-5/8″ legs will end up. Lay out the legs in a way to reduce the amount of splits, knots or other imperfections. Mark the cut lines and note which side of each cut needs to be scrapped.

We’re looking to make the pieces square, and also of the same length. The key to making them square is making sure that the saw blade is square, and it has a square cutting guide. The trick to get the pieces that are the same length is to secure them and then chop them at the same time. For the 4×4’s, this involves cutting a rough cut into each piece first. This means we have four pieces that are 3-4″ larger than what we require to get the four legs.

These rough cut:

It’s not necessary to cut these rough cuts using the cutting guide that’s on the 4×4’s that are clamped together but I tried it nonetheless, for the sake of practicing. It was clear that when I made my first attempts with edge guides the clamps would be into the way of motor when I was cutting a long cut.

This is why we cuts to practice. Overall it was not after my third cut, that I was happy.

In my second attempt to guidelines for edges, I created another rough cut. The edge guide was a success but the last of the cuts showed that the saw’s blade wasn’t completely square. So I adjusted the saw and clamped the four legs, and cut what I thought would be the first cut to be final, in the event that it was in a clean manner. It did not. I let the saw slide some distance from the edge of the guide. Then I altered the saw, moving the guide back about an inch, then attempted again. The rough cut pieces were just a few inches more than they were supposed to be, which meant I had plenty of room,. It’s the final cut at the other end you’re only given one shot at.

How neat and square these cuts must be is completely your choice. The more clean the cut, the better the joints will stay together and the more square cut, the more square the bench as a whole.

Cuts to the final version:

If you’re happy with the cut you made on one end, flip over all four legs — which are in place to measure and cut the opposite end. If you can support them on leftover pieces from 4×4, you may do this without lifting the clamps.

When using 2×4’s. it is not necessary to rotate and cut on both sides, however you should ensure there’s clearance to allow the saw to damage your table.

Layout each 2×4 on is the ideal location for 16″ short stretcher as well as 41″ long stretcher. Place the marks on the an outside edge on the shorter stretcher. connect the 2×4’s and then clamp the whole thing onto the table, secure your edge guide and then cut. If you are satisfied with the clean cut, adjust the edge guide at 16″ and cut once more.

Cut the stretchers long exactly the same way.

5. The Basis Step Two The Grooves are Routing

Next step would be routing the grooves where the threaded rods will go through. A router table is the ideal for this. Since I don’t have an actual router table, but I made use of a hand-held model with edges guide.

There are numerous techniques to make use of the router. The first is that the router rotates clockwise when you look towards the router from above. This means that if you cut using your router left-to-right the bit will pull the router away you. Likewise, if you cut from left to right and the router pulls toward you. Therefore, if you’re using the edge guide on the side closest to the board, make sure you route in a left-to-right direction and if you’re hooking it to the other edge of the board you should route from left to right. Always check the location of your piece on scrap material. Your chances of getting it right through your eyes are slim. Thirdly, you shouldn’t make more than 1/8″ deep in a single pass. We’re after an 3/8″ deep grove. So, make the first pass at 3/16″ or more then make another pass to get to the full depth.

I was able to make several cuts to practice. The first one revealed that I didn’t tighten the screws that hold the edge guide sufficiently. The second showed that the layout for the guide gave minimal support towards the edge of a board due to the cut-outs to accommodate the router bits. In the “Getting Beginning with woodworking” film, you can see that they attached a piece or hardwood to the edge guide, in order in order to create a continuouslonger and a more extensive bearing surface. I could do it myself one day however, I didn’t have the tools available and so I clamped a bit of 2×4 scraps at the bottom of each piece of wood, to create a continuous bearing surface beyond the end. The two grooves of the long stretchers as well as the side grooves of the short stretchers share the same arrangement. I cut practice cuts using scrap until I could get the edge guide properly set before cutting the entire set using that setting. The groove at the bottom of the short stretchers is an entirely different set-up which is why I went back to scraps, prior to cutting the stretchers.

Step Six: Base Step Three Step Three: Sanding the parts

While I was adjusting the 2×4’s during routing, I realized I wouldn’t be thrilled with the appearance of the bench in the event that it was made of these boards that weren’t finished. They were covered in pencil marks, and most important, splinters that were left by the saw that I never would like to see. Then I thought about the other furniture in the shop made of unfinished pine been like after a few decades in the filth of an office.

Therefore, I set out to clean the boards, take out the splinters and the stamps and prepare for the possibility of a finishing.

There’s only one picture to show this step, but it was the longest-running.

I utilized the hand screws again to keep the pieces. I employed the belt sander to eliminate the surface issues, and later I used a small random orbital sander to clean up scratches caused from the belt. It took five passes, between 50 and 80grit using the belt sander, and 100 150, 200, and 220 gr. on my orbital.

My suggestion? Do not do this. If you have a jointer as well as an aplaner, make use of these. If not, think about using lumber that is dimensional and has been sanded and planed. If you plan to attempt to clean construction lumber manually using a hand-planer, it is much more efficient and comfortable than using an electric belt sander. However, you should note that in order to do a great job of laying out a plan, you will require a sturdy bench to support the board but you don’t have the bench yet.

The truth is, me, and I’m quite stubborn and I almost always insist on doing things the tough way.

Step Seven: Base Step Four Step Seven: The Base, Step Four Trestle Rod Holes

Now that we have the parts We’ll use a portion of them -two legs and two stretchers — to construct our first trestle.

Then, you can match the parts.

There are parts that are not perfect or cutting will turn out perfectly. Make sure to match your pieces so that your less-than-perfect pieces are placed in less-than-critical places.

It is supported on the top by tops of the legs as well as the tops of the stretchers on top. Set your legs on the end on a level surface (like my front door) and observe whether they move. If there is an end that’s not very stable, you can make it a foot, so that the leveler makes it’s imperfections irrelevant. Examine the top edge of every stretcher to ensure it is straight. If one of them has a hint of bow, use it to make the lower stretcher. It’s not so important that the shelf is secured along its length.

Make a mock-up design to test how the components fit. Label each part with a label to indicate the part that joins it with the other.

Note the holes

The holes we wish to mark are the ones through the threaded rod that connects two legs will go. This rod is threaded along the three-quarter” groove that runs along the lower part of each of the stretchers. This hole needs been positioned in such a way to ensure that once the rod runs through the groove that at the bottom of the stretcher, the rod is level to the upper part of the leg. The most precise method I’ve come across to determine the location of this hole is to use a dowel centre. Place the dowel center in the groove at the bottom, then line up the stretcher and smash it into the wall using a mallet made of rubber. The dowel’s center will leave a mark that marks the location in the hole.

The exact location on the bottom stretcher is not important. I marked a location eight” from the leg’s end.

Drill holes

In the “Getting Beginning by Woodworking” video In the “Getting Started with Woodworking” video, the holes in the 4×4’s were cut from behind. This means that they begin at the opposite end of the precise mark, and drill into it to make the mark. If they are able to do this, good luck to you, but I’m not able to drill through 3 1/2″ of wood until it emerges with a precise location with no drill press but not always.

I dug through the mark. So I could make sure it was exactly where it was supposed to be in the direction where the location was crucial. There are two 3/8″ bits — a brad-point bit that was included in my doweling kit, and an ordinary 3/8″ twist bit. Brad-point bits are much superior to twistsThey’re more likely to begin precisely where you’d like them tostart, and are more likely to remain straight. The problem I’m having is that my brad-point tool wasn’t big enough to cut through 3 1/2″ in wood. Thus, I began each hole using the brad-point bit, and I completed it using the twist bit. I clamped a piece plywood on the back to prevent tear-out.

Once the holes were completed and the legs were flipped, I turned them over and then drilled the countersinks using 1″ Forstner bit. It is difficult to drill countersinks when the center is already made would be impossible using spade bits or an auger. Forstner bits are controlled by their edges, rather than their central point, and so they can do the task. One thing to note concerning Forstners however is that they are known to flutter around in the beginning and then they will take a bite. A simple fix would be drilling a small hole in the ply and then to secure it to your workpiece and create a jig that will stop drill bits from creating into the wrong place.

The countersinks must be large enough to accommodate the washer and nut, and possibly a little.

Step Eight: Base Step Five Step Eight: The Base, Step Five Trestle Dowel Holes

Drill the dowel holes in the stretcher.

Make a pair of 3/8″ holes at each of the short stretchers, about half the depth of the dowels by using a brad-pointed tool. The stretchers already have grooves along their length, which is located on the bottom. It’s not necessary to be precise about the placement and it’s just a matter of keeping an eye on which piece is what. There should be a hole at every stretcher’s end. Be sure to ensure that these holes are even, they shouldn’t be to be in a straight line.

Note the holes for the leg dowels.

Place a leg flat on your work surface using the countersink side of the through-holes facing down. Attach a threaded rod in each of the holes. Choose a stretcher designed to have one end that is adjacent to the top of this leg. Stick the dowel center into the dowel hole, then align it with the leg by using the rod threaded to aid in placement. The uppermost part of the stretched to line up to the upper part of your leg or perhaps just a little higher. Give the top of your stretcher hit with your mallet made of rubber. The result will be a mark that indicates where the dowel hole inside the leg should be made. Repeat the process for the lower stretcher which is attached to this leg. Then repeat the process for the other leg , which will make this trestle, as well as both ends of both stretchers.

Drill the holes in the leg dowels

Once your legs on the stretched stretcher, you can drill the holes for the second dowel in the same direction as the marks. Be sure to ensure that the holes are even.

Step Nine: Base Step Six Board Jack Holes

A board jack is a mechanism that provides support to long boards being kept by the vise. They can be extremely sophisticated, and rely on components which can be moved vertically and horizontally. The simplest method is to insert a dowel in an incision made into the top of your bench.

The “Getting Beginning with Woodworking” video only showed one hole that was drilled on the front leg on the right that is in line using the vise. This method is suitable only for a small selection of boards. I chose to drill holes of four different heights on both of my front legs. and six inches apart.

In order to allow the same type of hold-downs as the holes for the bench dog on top, I decided that they ought to be 3/8″ in diameter and be drilled whenever they are.

The Jig

Making a precise deep, wide, and deep hole isn’t an easy task without an appropriate drill press. So I purchased an WolfCraft drilling guide. After testing it out, and drilling a few tests holes, I designed an jig to use it. I attached it to an inch of MDF and then cut an exact 3/8″ hole. This MDF can be secured more quickly than the base and the hole that is 3/4″ hole will stop the 3/8″ Forstner bit drilling precisely exactly where it should.

The holes are marked by marking them.

I wanted to make my first hole one-quarter” away from top and three holes at intervals of six inches each one in the middle.

To mark the centerline, use the compass to extend greater than half the length of your leg. Draw an arc starting from the to the corner of leg. The point at which the arcs meet will be located on the centerline. With a centerline point at both ends of the leg, put an scribe at the centerline point, then move a straightedge to meet the scribe. The same process is done with the other end. If you have your straightedge in a position where you are able to reach both ends with your scribe and, in every instance, it is touching the straightedge without moving the straightedge – you can scribe the line. Utilize scribes instead of pencils or pens because they are more precise in marking.

Utilize the compass, once more to mark the center of the hole on the top 1-1/4″ above the bottom of the hole, and on the centerline. Mark the second hole along the centerline, 6 inches lower than the first. Repeat the process for the second and third holes. To set the exact length of the compass employ a rule that has marks etched in the ground, and place the compass’s points in the grooves that have been etched.

Make a centerpunch at each of the four points at a time and then press it down to create an indentation. This will mark the middle of your hole.

Drilling holes

Due to the depth of hole, each one was a four-step process:

1. Once the jig is set and clamped, begin the hole using a 3/4″ Forstner bit, to make sure that the entry is clean. Drill perhaps 1/2″ deep.
2. Expand the hole using the 1/4″ spade bit to as deep as your jig allows.
3. Take the jig off and extend the hole using an 1/4″ spade bit until the point where the bit is about to protrude out from the other side.
4. Flip the leg over, place the jig, then close the hole using an Forstner bit. This will allow for a smooth exit.

The hole at the top of the other does not go beyond, and only the steps one and two are required.

Step 10. The Base Step Seven – Inseaming the Trestle

All you need to do is put it all together

Make two 24-” long lengths made of 3/4″ threaded rod. If you purchased lengths of 6 take 2 24″ longer lengths. On the other end of each, put the washer and nut. Screw the nut on just half-way, as you don’t want the nut to protrude past the end of the rod to protrude.

Thread the rods through one the legs, and then lay the leg on top of the table. Put dowels in the holes for dowels. Set the stretchers that match into their proper positions. Install dowels into the holes located at the top of each stretcher. Set the other leg on the rod threaded and then place it on the dowels. You’ll likely have another chance to hit the floor using your rubber mallet.

If you’ve got the other leg in place and the rods are threaded, they will stretch farther more than you would like them to. It is best to mark them to ensure they are cut to length. Put a washer and bolt on each rod, then tighten the nut until it is pulled tightly. Based on the wrench you’re using, and the more long the rod it has to have, you might need to stack the washers to ensure that the nut can be placed so that the wrench can be operated on it.

Once you’ve secured everything. take off the washers and nuts and wrap a piece tape around the ends of each rod and mark the tape with the location where the rod needs to be cut. The goal is to cut it just a bit below that point. After that, you can take it apart.

The rods are cut to make it easier

There’s nothing complicated in cutting the rods. Attach them to the temporary table, then remove them with the hacksaw. Be sure to use the sharpest blade. When you’re setting up the clamps. you’ll think about how wonderful it will be when you’re using the vise to tackle jobs such as this.

The hacksaw can often harm the last thread it cuts. The removal of a nut from the end can fix this. You’ll need to thread the nut towards the opposite end. This shouldn’t take too long in the event that you drop the rod into your drilling machine and let it work. The rod should be held vertically with the drill pointed downwards and hold it to the nut to stop it spinning.

Assembly

Once you’ve got all the rods cut in length join all of them together as you did in the past you cut them, and you’ll be able to construct the first of trestles.

Step 11: The Base, Step Eight Lather, Rinse, Repeat

Repeat the same procedure for the next trestle and finally, for stretchers with long sides to put together the base

After the legs and stretchers are connected after connecting the stretchers and legs, flip the entire assembly upside down and then install the levelers. After that, flip it back to the upright position.

The next step is the shelf. Begin by using the 24-x48″ pieces of MDF. Put it onto the base and draw around the stretchers’ outside as well as the inside angles of the leg. Turn the base over, take out your trusted cutting guide and cut it down to length and width. Making the angles is easy, using the jigsaw. It’s not too much work with hand-saws. If you were careful enough using blocks that support the saw or stops can likely do it using the circular saw. As I had an jig saw I decided to use it.

Step 12: Building the Base Step 

I had decided to go with an oil and wax finish. They’re by no by any means the most durable. They’re actually pretty weak, as in terms of protecting wood. They’re also easy to apply, and even the most durable finish can be able to withstand the wear and tear that an industrial workbench can take and it’s essential that it’s easy to fix. It’s typically used to give a glossy. On the bench, it’s used to stop glue from sticking to.

Then I it was decided that the oil itself is enough to make the base. The wax helps to provide the surface with a glossy (which I do not see any need for) as well as to help clean up spilled glue and paint (which I see no need for at the base). So I cleaned the base, then applied wax and oiled to the top.

The “Getting Beginning on woodworking” video series includes an episode that focuses on applying oil-and-wax finishes. It includes steps like applying water to the wood, then sanding the grain raised. The whole process seemed a bit excessive for something I planned to place in my basement, and then smash with an Hammer.

I built a table using some step-stools, my hollow core door as well as an MDF panels that would later become the top. I was worried that any oil drip onto the door could affect the adhesion of its glue and I’ll be able to finish the project I had purchased it. The top part on the upper sheet MDF however, I had planned to oil regardless. (Ditto with the other part of the sheet that is on the bottom).

The base was put up on the table, you can give it at a better height than it would be placed on the ground or an actual table.

Applying the oil is simple. Wear some gloves made of vinyl and pour the oil into an empty bowl, then take one clean cotton cloth that is the size of a washcloth or less and dip it into the oil and apply it on the wood. The wood should be moist. You’re not trying to rub it into till it’s dried. Apply oil all over the surface, then walk through it, looking for dry spots, and apply more oil as necessary. After 15 hours of making sure it is moist allow it to sit for another 15 minutes. After that, apply an additional coat of oil and allow it to rest for another 15 minutes.

Dry it off. For a half-hour, clean it off if any oil that has escaped. Examine it every 30 minutes and repeat this process for about an hour.

Next day apply a second coat, let it sit for half an hour, and then clean it off. Repeat the process on subsequent days, applying as many coats you believe are necessary. I used three coats.

!!! Warning

Remember those fire safety guidelines you were taught in elementary school, concerning the hazards of oily cloths? Linseed oil was the one they were discussing. All rags with oil are highly flame-proof. Linseed oil self-combusts. Linseed oil does not evaporate, it is oxidized. The oxidation produces heat, and this accelerates the rate of oxidation.

Linseed oil in a bowl or spread over the wood’s surface, is totally safe. However, a linseed-infused the rag has a hugely increased surface area, which means that process of oxidation is faster and the rag may provide insulation, absorbing heat. The higher temperature accelerates the oxidation process even further and raises the temperature and the feedback loop can lead to temperatures that can trigger the rag to ignite. The rag isn’t up to one the “do not drive your car when sunscreen is present” warnings. It’s one of those “keep your finger off of the trigger until you’ve got the gun pointed at something that you would like for it to hit” warnings. Rags that are soaked in oil from linseed could catch fire in the event that you do not handle them properly. They can catch fire much faster than you think.

When working with linseed oil don’t — I’m not referring to never abandon rags you’ve used on the floor. Put them in the open and away from any combustible objects and with sufficient ventilation to ensure they stay cool. Put them in an empty bucket of water and hang them later outside. If you’re only placing a rag on the ground to dry, lay it flat, and without folds, and on something that isn’t flammable. If you hang it outside in the breeze The oil contained in rags will not hold heat when they are oxidizing. The process of letting the oil completely change color, it can take some days in the case of warm weather or even an entire week if cold and wet. After it has fully oxidized oil will be firm and the rags stiff. When they’re that stiff they’re secure and can be put in the garbage. Put them in the trash prior to that and you may decide to let go of your garage.

Step 13: Top Step One – Identifying the Layout

Before creating or drilling for the parts that comprise the top, you must determine the design for the upper. This will include the measurements of the MDF and the measurements of the edges, the location of the vises, of the bolts or screws that will hold the vises. Also, take note of all the benchdog holes , and all the screws for drywall that you’ll utilize for the laminate of your panels.

In the event that you do not lay everything out before you start and you don’t know the layout, you might discover you have a bolt that you’ll need to make the benchdog hole or something similar to such. I sketched my plans on graph paper, and then sketched the plan in full-size on top of the lower layer MDF with the actual components as templates.

The height of the top will be determined by the thickness of base. Length of top will depend on the vise you use. The vise that I bought was to be fitted with hardwood jaws that would extend across the width of my bench. I had a piece two-by-6″ white oak I wanted to trim down for this reason of.

The choice to make regarding the final vise is whether it needs to be put the inside or the exterior of the stretcher. The plate that is mounted within the frame limits the range of the vise. it isn’t able to open as wide as it could because the plate is positioned back away from its edge by just a few inches. However, placing it on outside the stretcher implies that we’ll have to construct some kind of support structure for the jaws on the inside of the vise. legs would have offered when we had mounted the plate inside of the stretcher.

I thought about the two scenarios, and concluded it was the case that with the plate in the stretcher, the vise will have eight inches of reach while with it out of the stretcher, it would extend of 9. I determined the 8-inch range was adequate and the additional inch wasn’t worth the effort. When the end vise is installed this way the right-hand edge on the top of it would not have an overhang.

It was my intention to have the right edge of jaws of front vise be in line along the bottom’s left side, and the right edge being flush with that left side of left leg. The amount of overhang on the left is dependent on the size of the jaw on the front of the vise. The jaw’s width is at a minimum the size of the plate that is supporting it. However, it’s common to allow the jaw to extend to a certain extent over the plate. What is the maximum distance? The longer it extends, the more of the bite you could take using your vise’s edge in the case, for instance, you clamp the side of a board that is supported horizontally. However, the further it is extended the less support it can provide. I decided to increase the length by 1-12″ that gives me the 2-1/2″ bite. This is still a solid foundation considering that the jaw is just 1 1/2″ thick. This means that the top of the jaw requires an overhang left at 12-1/4″.

What you have to decide from this drawing is where you’ll need for the drill holes to be made, mount holes to the vises and the location where you’ll place the screws that you will use for lamination. And also, what the edge of your top is going to be cut.

Step 14: the Top Step Two Laminating the MDF

It is then time to glue two pieces of MDF to form the bottom layer of the top layer.

Then, cut the MDF to a little oversize. There will be room to clean edges once the pieces are joined but you’ll only need less than a quarter-inch of space each side to do this, and there’s no reason to waste glue.

If you’re fortunate enough to own the vacuum press, make use of it. Also, drill holes for the screws on the bottom layer, at the exact locations you marked in your layout. Also, you’ll need to drill several screws around the edges of the piece that you’ll trim off, or you’ll require clamps around the edges. I’ve just added additional screws.

The holes for screws should be of enough diameter to allow screws are able to pass through easily. The screw should go through the second layer, and then squeeze it against the previous. If the threads touch both layers, they’ll be inclined to keep them in a predetermined distance.

If you’re using screws for drywall it is necessary to make sure that you countersink your holes. Drywall screws have flat heads, and require a countersink in order to allow them to sit securely. In the case of Kreg pocket screws, as I did, like I did then you shouldn’t have to countersink your holes. Kreg screws are pan-head and sit nicely against the flat surface. Both drywall screws as well as Kreg pocket screws are self-threading. Therefore, there’s no need for pilot holes on another sheet of MDF.

Whatever screw you choose regardless of the type, you’ll have turn the board upside down and make use of a countersink screw in all exit holes. When drilling MDF creates bumps, and the countersink drill will eliminate them and leave an inch of space to draw up the material by the screw on an additional sheet MDF. It is essential to get rid of any obstruction that could prevent both panels from coming to form a in a flat. I set a block plane for take a small amount of bite, and then ran it across what remains of the bumps, and then across the edges. Its edges MDF may be swollen cutting or simply through handling, and then you’ll want to knock it down.

Once you’ve got all the holes drilled prepare the area to glue up. It’s important to have everything in hand prior to starting with the drill, driver bit and glue, roller, or whatever else you’ll need to spread glue on as well as four clamps for the corners. It’s best to have an even surface to apply the glue-up on – I chose the door that I hollowed out top of my bench base as well as a similar flat surface to set the other panel on. A folding table supporting my countertop made of oak that makes a fantastic flat surface, however I wanted to ensure I didn’t get glue drips onto it, so I have covered it in painter’s plastic leftover from the previous bedroom that we painted.

Place the top panel of MDF on the glue-up surface and put the bottom side of it up. Place the bottom portion of MDF on the opposite surface, with the bottom facing down. (The panel that has holes drilled through it is the panel on the bottom and the one with the diagram of layout on it is the top side.) Make sure you use the driver that is appropriate to use the screws you’re using. Be sure to have a battery that is fully charged, and turn the speed down and then reduce the torque. Don’t over tighten the screws. MDF can easily be cut.

When you’ve started spreading glue, you’ll have about five minutes to have the two panels joined to be aligned and then secured. Make sure you have everything in your possession, and you’re not likely to be interrupted. Begin squeezing the glue from one MDF panel, then spreading it out in a thin, uniform coat, making sure that you do not leave any areas unfinished. Repeat the process for the second MDF panel. Take the lower panel, and then flip it onto the top panel. Move it around to ensure that the glue is evenly distributed. then align one corner and insert screws. The opposite corner should be lined up and drive the screw. Attach all four corners to the flat surface. begin to drive the remaining screws in a spiral, starting beginning from the center.

Once you’re done allow it to rest for up to 24 hours.

Step 15: Top Step Three – Edge the MDF

Edges of MDF are extremely fragile and can be easily broken or crushed. MDF is also known for absorption of water through its edges, which causes the panels to expand. In Sam Allen’s original design He trimmed his MDF in the thickness of 1/4″ hardboard. This is one of the more complicated elements that Asa Christiana did not include in her simplified model. I think it was an oversight. MDF is in need of some form of protection, particularly around the edges.

Naturally, I, however, using my Ikea countertops made of oak, probably did a little too much in the other direction. Because I had to cut the countertop to size, I decided I’d remove two 1/2″ strips to make a border for the MDF. The countertop was clamped onto the bench’s base using to cut the length of my guide. I’d asked the internet for suggestions regarding cutting this huge piece of oak I was advised to use the Freud Diablo 40-tooth blade in my circular saw. I discovered one in my local home-based store at a reasonable cost and it was very effective.

Take the screws off the laminated MDF panels and cut down the MDF down to the appropriate size. Keep in mind that you want the size that the top is to be equal to the size of the base and you’re also adding an edging. In my case, using the 5/8″ edge I cut off the MDF to one” shorter than the base. This way, I could utilize my router to make final trimming to the precise dimensions.

First, cut a long edge. Then, cut a shorter edge. Make sure that it’s exactly square with the longer edge that you just cut. Attach both pieces of the edge that you’ll be using on the long edge that you cut. Measure the length that the bottom is plus 1/4-1/4″ then mark that and then trace an outline of the mark , which is square to the point you cut. Then, cut on the same line. Then, cut the short edge to match the long edges. (The size of the edge does not need to match precisely therefore we don’t have to clamp the trim first before taking measurements.)

Make sure you glue the trim at the other end first. Dry fit it first. Then, as you dismantle it, lay everything in a place where you are able to reach it while putting it back together after you have added the glue. To keep the edge of the piece straight I clamped a pair of scraps of hardboard on each side. I used the scrap of doubled MDF I had cut off as a cawl to assist in spreading the force of the clamps. Put glue in the bowl of a small size, then employ an empty brush. When you clamp your trim, make sure you place it just slightly higher than the top of the surface.

If you have clamps, remove the pieces of hardboard. Clean up the glue squeezeout by using the help of a damp sponge.. After the glue is dry cut the strip to a flush panel using a router as well as the flush-trim bits. Cut off the edges of the strip using the flush-cut saw, and then clean it up using blocks or edge scraper or a Sanding block. The idea of leaving those ends in the same place as you are routing the edge, helps aid in supporting the router.

The strip that runs along the back and front edges are glued in exactly the same way. It is possible to glue them both together. I haven’t tried it.

Step 16: the Top Step Four – trimming the MDF Edging

Once the top is completed when the countertop is completed, we want edges of MDF and the countertop made of oak to be of identical dimensions and their widths to match the base’s base.I can think of three options for doing this: 1. Join MDF MDF onto the countertop, and then employ my belt sanders to sand their joined edges so that they be able to match the base. 2 connect MDF to countertop and join MDF onto the countertop, and then employ a hand plane to cut their joined edges in order to make them match or, utilize a flush-trim piece against the straight edge to cut your MDF to the same width as the base. Join MDF to countertop. MDF onto the countertop. Use the flush-trim tool to cut the countertop to be a perfect match to the MDF.

Problems? 1. I’ve never used the belt-sander and not sanded more than I intended to; 2. I don’t own an jack or a smoothing planer, so I I’ve never utilized one; 3. I’d require a flush-trim tool that has the 1-1/.2″ cut length. They’re only available with 1.2″ collets as well as the cheap plunger I bought came with an quarter” collet.

I contacted a few people to find out if the router will give me the best results. I was directed to an excellent deal on a fixed base router that has an 1/2″ collet. Therefore, I picked the option 3. If you select the same, you’ll want to cut edge of MDF layer prior to joining it with the countertop. Also, it is now.

Place MDF MDF onto the ground, from bottom to top. Flip the base upside down and set it over the MDF. Set the base up with the MDF in the way that you like best. Then draw the positions on the leg. Sorry, I don’t have a photo of this.

Turn the base upside down and place the MDF on top Then employ the straightedge for drawing two straight lines connecting the sides of the legs, and expanding the width of MDF. It was the counter for the straightedge. We cut it using our cutting guide and it is based off the edge that is factory-made on an inch of 1/4″ plywood, and therefore it ought to remain straight. Utilize a carpenter’s squaring tool to place these lines on the edges of MDF.

Set the countertop on top and place the MDF over your countertop and then line up the marks you traced at each edge of the MDF with the countertop beneath it. Once it is lined up, place the clamps down and then route the edges of the MDF by using 1 1/2″ or larger flush-trim piece with the depth set so that the machine rides against the countertop. I clamped a few bits of doubled MDF on each side to give the base of the router something else to sit along the edges.

Edge-trimming endgrain may cause tears at the right edge therefore, you should route the shorter edge first before routing your right edge. Route the right edge first and remove any tearouts that occur at the edge of the short..

Step 17: the Top Interlude Repairing a Misstake

After gluing the wood edges onto the MDF I made an error. On the reverse side the edge was placed at an insufficient height, which would cause a gap to appear between you join the MDF as well as the counter top were joined. I wanted to correct the issue.

The strips I’d cut from the countertop of oak to get rid of the bevel from the factory looked like they could work in the event that I could figure out how to cut them without harm using circular saw.

I came up with two strips of MDF as well as an adjustable bar clamp to make an instrument that could keep the oak strip and also had the profile to fit underneath the guide for cutting.

After having my strip-cut, I adhered it to the wall, then clamped it up.

I’d purposely made it too big in the hopes of trimming it to a flush. The trimming process is more difficult than normal due to the fact that I had to trim it in a flush fashion across two faces. The edge face was extended by about 3/8″ which is why I cut off the excess using an arc saw and an edge guide. I then turned the edge guide over to create a sturdy base that could be used by the router. In addition to the use of Edge Guide, cutting the edge face was not particularly noteworthy.

For trimming the top of the face I positioned the panel horizontally, with the router’s base sitting at the top of the panel, and the cutting blade across the other edge that the panels. Because I was cutting along the side of the work piece, I had to shift the router from left to right. This is where I encountered another issue.

In the gap of the edge I filled was not that deep. On the left, it was 3/16″ deep. On the other side, the edging was in line with the MDF with no gaps. This implies that, on the left I was cutting away all the strip that I had glued into. The result was a massive tear-out.

It was what I usually do when confronted by this type of trap: I shut off my router and turned it downand went away for a while. I’ve discovered that any actions I make in the midst of frustration over an issue that didn’t go as planned is usually the wrong thing to do and often makes the situation more difficult.

What I did, after I returned I clamped down the strip that was torn and then begin routing from the other side. I did move the router from left to right however, I worked in 6-inch sections, using gentle passes, and then sort of whittled down the strip. Since those sections that I worked on on were further to the left and the strip was smaller. At some point, I got to the point that I was cutting the strip to the point of being completely cut off and at that point, I cut off the clamps and the rest went away.

An alternative is to run a rabbet in the side of the strip, in order that the added strip was always thick. The method I used is that the piece I stuck in is small, which makes it weakat a particular point. In this instance, it’s not a problemsince it will be positioned underneath the countertop. It also occurred to me that since I only clamped this strip down, not directly into the edge there was a visible gap in the glue where the strip was rubbing against the MDF. In this instance, it’s not noticeable. If I were to do something similar on surface of a table I’d ensure that I make a straight rabbet and then clamp it both down and inside.

Step 18 The Vises Step One Mounting Bases to the top

The vise at the end will have both jaws constructed of 1 1/2″ wide oak. The front vise features a moving jaw that is made from 1-1/2″ oak, however it utilizes its bench’s edge for it’s stationary jaw. This means that for the end vise, if we put the lower end, then we could make both jaws wider to compensate, but for the front vise we are unable to make it deeper, and so we need it to be mounted at the same distance from the bench’s edge as is possible.

Therefore, I decided to put an additional layers with 3/4″ MDF under the end vise, but not under the front vise.

Vises are typically attached by using lag screws at the bottom, but there’s a limit to the number of occasions you may tighten the lag bolts in MDF. I chose to use bolts from the top downwards and then embedding the bolts’ heads in the top.

The first step was cutting an area of MDF that was the same size as that of the bottom part of the vise. I marked the locations for the holes within it, and then drilled small pilot holes. I also made larger holes in the corners of the cutouts that were rectangular, and joined them with the help of a JIGSAW.

Then, I turned the top and base, laid up on the bottom in the correct place in relation to the top. I then placed the front vise and supports MDF that would be the vise’s end and marked the positions for the holes in bolts. Then I turned the base over right side up I drilled small pilot holes on the bottom, that I had marked places, and then I created shallow countersinks on each side, followed by the through hole was aligned with the bolts. Finally , I tested the washers and bolts and then drilled the countersinks deeper until the bolt heads were barely the level of flush.

After putting the countersinks and holes in place, I placed the bolts, applied tape to stop their from falling off, then flipped the top and applied glue to the supporting piece of MDF to secure it on top of the bolts, put in nuts and washers, and then tightened it.

Stage 19: Vises, Interlude – Fixing Another Fault

The reason I cut out the rectangles from the support of the vise was because I was planning to insert the benchdog holes through each one, in order for the size of the upper part to be identical for all of the holes for benchdogs. My mistake was by not cutting the ends behind the bolt tabs. I was planning to drill in a benchdog hole too however, I had forgotten to cut the segments prior to gluing them up.

Whatever, it took only twenty minutes to cut the sections which were flush with the surface.

Step 20: Top Step Five The Benchdog Holes Part One

It is important to finish as much work on the two layer of top prior to joining them. Handling the top layer after the two layers have been joined will be a big problem.

Then drill the holes for the benchdogs into to the MDF layer. Start by laying them out in their locations. You’ll need them to be exact, to ensure you can ensure that distances between holes are in line. The vises you’re employing will limit the spacing of your benchdog. My front vise performed the best natural with two sets of holes that were four inches apart. I also had my back vise had two rows with four inches of space between the rows, and 8 inches in between the rows. Due to this, I chose four” 4-by-4″ pattern.

I designed an outline by drawing two squares that are adjacent on a piece MDF with straightedge and compass, marking every corner using a centerpunch, and finally drilling the points using 1/16″ bit. I’m always breaking tiny bits, and so I purchased two of each size a few months ago. On searching, I realized there were three one-quarter” bits, and they did the job for what I was planning to use them for.

I marked the single hole, then and then drilled a small 1/16″ hole through the top. I then put 1/16″ bit through the hole of my template, and then into the hole I just made. I lined up my template, then made a second hole and after which I put another bit through the hole. Then, I began working entirely on the template. With two bits of the holes that pinned the template to the ground The other holes on the template would be precisely placed (or as the theory suggests) on an four-by-4″ grid.

After having done this and I’m not sure if I’d ever do it that method again. It could be quicker to design the positions using straightedge and compass directly on the top. In either case, you’ll need you to utilize a scribe instead than pencil. Scribe lines are difficult to spot, and are difficult to capture, however the compass and scribe points are able to click into them, giving the precision that pencils cannot achieve.

Once you’ve got all the locations marked, you can drill through them. I took out my drill guide as well as an 3/8″ Forstnet bit. Then I drilled 1/2″ to make sure the hole has a neat beginning. After that, I made the hole the same depth as the previous hole using the 3/8″ spade bit, until an area that it was apparent that the tip of the spade was extending from the opposite side.

Then I flipped it over from over the top and then from the opposite side, I made a hole out the exit using an 3/8″ Forstner bit.

Making this many holes in MDF can cause the burning of bits. It’s best to purchase a few bits or master the art of sharpening them. Forstner bits create holes with more polished edges than spade bits however they’re more expensive and are harder to sharpen.

Step 21: the Top Interlude Two – Correcting another mistake

Based on my design I had to drill precisely-placed holes. I wasn’t able to get all of them exactly.

If you drill an opening in the wrong location, if it doesn’t overhang the correct place, you’re free to ignore it. Should it do, you’ll have to fill the hole.

Cut an inch long” dowel, place some glue inside the hole, then on the sides of the dowel. hit it with a hammer. Clean any glue that has escaped out using a damp towel.

The next day, you can cut it to a flush. Make use of a block plane make sure it’s smooth. This is the topmost layer of the bench’s top, therefore gouges won’t be a problem. (Wiping the glue up using a damp cloth could cause stains and finish spreading unevenly. It shouldn’t be an issue with this one also.) But bumps and bulges are an issue – they hinder the two layers of the top layer from blending in a uniform way.

Mark the correct place, and then do it again.

Step 22: Top Step Six – Finishing the MDF Layer

There are a few things to be completed in the MDF layer before it is joined with the counter-top layer.

The first step is to drill holes for the screws that join them. As both layer of MDF are joined together, the countertop and MDF are only screwed. The countertop made of oak, as any other natural wood item can expand and contract when variations in humidity. If it was glued to MDF and the MDF, the differences in expansion between two layers would result in the counter top to stretch and then curl.

To do this, every screw hole apart from one row on the front edge must be drilled to the correct size. This allows the wood to have some flexibility to move.

The majority of the time I cut through the holes left from laminating 2 sheets of MDF. There were a few occasions when I moved holes over slightly because it was close to a hole for a benchdog. Also, I made a additional row of holes along the outside edge, since our holes on the edge of the outside were cut as we cut the MDF to the proper size.

Pay attention to what’s underneath You do not want the screw’s head the screw to block the path of the legs, stretchers or vises.

Once again I used pockets hole screws from Kreg’s this time in a 2-1/2″ length.

The last step for layering the MDF layer will be to smooth the edges of the bottom with your router and using a 1/4″-radius round-over tool. Do some practice on scraps first, to ensure that the thickness of the round-over bit that you want.

Step 23: Vises Step Two Holes through the End Stretcher

The end vise must have holes in the stretcher at the end. The screw and rods for the anti-rack measure approximately 1″ in diameter. Therefore, I punched 1-1/8″ holes.

I identified the holes by putting the dowel’s center on the end of a section of 1″ dowel. It is then inserted into the holes on the base plate and smash it against the end of it using mallets. Turn it around and then bang it again and then repeat. Chances are that the dowel’s will not be exactly at the center of the dowel. Therefore, you’ll end up with a tiny circle of marks. The middle of the hole is of course the center of the rings.

You can see my hi-tech air-scrubber on one of these photos. This is very helpful in keeping down the very fine dust that shop-vacs don’t collect.

Step 24: The top step Seven Step Seven : Preparing your Countertop

Once you have the MDF layer in place to join onto the Ikea countertop the second step would be to prep the countertop for joining to the MDF.

We must cut it in length and then to length and width. It is necessary to mark and drill drill pilot holes to accommodate the screws. There is no need to coat the surface of the layers however, I decided to oil it in the end.

I used two-and-a-half” fine Kreg screw with a pocket. Kreg screws are intended to self-tap, however the coarse thread screws are designed to be self-tapping for softwood. The fine-thread screws that they plan to use on hardwoods aren’t offered with 2 1/2″ lengths. I chose to make pilot holes through the oak. To ensure that I was doing it right, I made an experiment with the scrap piece that I had removed.

That piece of oak appears to be something I’ll be able to make use of it perhaps a cutting table. Therefore, I built an assembly line from stool, a scap made of 4×4, a few srtips of MDF as well as some shims to help catch the piece when the piece was cut. My hole for testing was made along the edge to keep most of the piece as clean as it was feasible.

The final thing to do is permanently attach the bolts to the vises. Because of the effort needed to get to the bolt heads, after the top has been joined I was planning to tighten them so they don’t spin, and secure them using blue Loctite. (That’s the most durable ever non-permanent material.) This did not work. What I discovered was that the countersinks’ bottoms were not perfectly flat after I drove the bolts to the point that they were tight to the point that the ends of the bolts could be pulled out of alignment that the base of the vise were unable to fit. To allow the vises’ bases to fit on top of the bolts I needed to let them loose so so that bolts could have a little slight wiggle, which means that they were loose enough to allow they to rotate. Therefore, I applied Loctite over the nuts to prevent them from slipping and then I filled my countersinks up with Liquid Nails, in hopes to stop those bolts from rotating. I was thinking about epoxy or a mixture of metal-epoxy similar to JB Weld, but I did not have enough of either available. It appears to be working so far but the true test isn’t until I’m required to take away the clamps.

Step 25: Top Step Eight to complete the Top

Lay the countertop flat and top-side-down. Set the MDF layer over it and place it on top. Place the through-holes of the MDF with the pilot holes of the oak. Join the two layers.

Be careful. A single 24-x-60″ sheets with 3/4″ MDF are pretty easy to lift. Doubled sheets are manageable. The countertop – a 24×72″ panel made of 1 1/2″ oak weighs hundred pounds. It is a serious task to safely lift it. The joined top, which is 3″ thickness of oak, and MDF is beyond the limit of being safely lifted by one person. Don’t try. Find a partner to assist or build a block-and-tackle.

Make use of the 3/8″ spade to bore the holes in the benchdog close to the top (I employed the drill guide mostly to make the depth stop. It’s quite simple to ensure that the drill is vertical using the hole that is already in place to help guide you).

If you can remember, while cutting the MDF I did the holes on the opposite side with the Forstner bit. This resulted in a neat hole, however the placement was not as precise as I really desired. For this reason I determined to clamp a piece of scrap MDF to the back of and then cut straight across. The Forstner bits are too small which is why I purchased an extender. Then I realized it was that my Spade bits provided an easier exit hole. Who would have thought?

Utilize 1 1/2″ cutting length flush-trim bits to make sure the sides match the countertop with the MDF. After that, use the 1/4″-radius round-over tool to smooth the top edges as well as the corners as well as an 1/8″-radius round-over bit to one of the holes for the benchdog.

Step 26: the Top Interlude Three – Filling Voids

I discovered, after I cut the countertop of oak it was apparent that the inside of the oak was not necessarily of the same grade like the external. The cuts exposed an enormous knot that had an enormous void. This was a problem that needed to be resolved.

I clamped the top of the base to the bottom of the base like I had done previously in order that the edges of the knot was simple to work with. I mixed together a normal five-minute epoxy, and then added a the slightest amount in black color. I applied it easily. After about 20 minutes, I looked it over and noticed that the most deep spot the void wasn’t completely filled and I mixed another batch and added some. After the cure had lasted an hour, I moved the top down to the floor, and applied an oil coat on the bottom. I was planning on securing this base onto the top on the following day. I would like to have the bottom to be oiled to stop it from taking in water.

As I mentioned earlier, be cautious when with the movement of the top. I created an easy pulley system that makes moving the top feasible by one man. Photos in a later step. However, a dog or two could work just as well, and could make it faster.

Step 27: The Bench Step One Jotting the Base and Top

When the top is down on the ground, with the bottom facing up, the next step is to turn over the bottom upside-down and secure it onto the top. I used Asa Christiana’s idea, using S-clips. When I visited my local Woodcraft However they had only two packs of ten. So I didn’t need the amount I could have otherwise. To make the top, I placed four sides and two at each end. The shelf was put 3 on either side, and two at each end. If I discover that I need more I could always add more.

Start by lining between the base and the top. Then , screw it down with the S-clips.

Install the bases of the vise and secure them using washers, nuts, and lock washers.

Flip it over, and then sand the edges. If you’ve utilized epoxy to fill in gaps, like the one I used, then you may prefer to begin using the belt sander. (Or If you’re more comfortable working with hand tools, then you can employ a scraper for cards.) Utilizing a random orbital sander you can work through 100 150, 150, and 200 grit. Flip it over and repeat the process on the other side.

After finishing sanding then clamp the shelf into the desired position, with the oil side facing down. Flip the bench upside down and then attach the base to the shelf with clips. (You’ll require 3/4″ self-tapping panhead screws , as the screws you put on the top are too long.)

Once the shelf is secured and the shelf secured, ask a few buddies to assist as you place up on the benches. As I stated earlier, lifting the top on your own is risky. The idea of lifting your entire bench dangerous. Of course, I’ve declared that I’m insecure, so I decided to do it by myself, rigging an easy block-and-tackle with light pulleys that I bought at the local hardware shop. (Not the lightest pulleys available they are intended for flag poles , and have an approximate design load of similar to 40 pounds. They had a design weight of around 420 pounds.)

Step 28: Bench Step Two – Finalizing

Now that the bench is set up, it’s simple for you to provide the bench top of the bench a light sweep using Random Orbital Sander. Also, 100 150, 200, and 220 grit.

I chose to finish the top with a series coatings Danish oil, and then an application of wax. I applied the oil’s first coat as usual making sure to apply it evenly over the edges and the holes. Then, I applied the of oil on the top of the shelf and also. Rub it on then let it sit in the water for half an hour, and after which you rub the oil off. After a few days before applying an additional coat and then another third.

Step 30: The Vises Third Step Three – Gluing up the Jaws

Once the bench is set up, and the vise bases positioned It’s now time to put in the jaws of the vise.

On a vise the surfaces that support whatever it is they’re being held are the jaws. I was planning to put in the front vise in a way that it utilizes an edge on the bench’s top to serve as the jaw stationary, and it was only necessary to construct the jaw that moves. The final vise required both moving and stationary.

The jaw of the front vise was required to measure 10″ in length – that is, it had to extend the length from the leg until the end of the top. It also had to be 1 1/2″ thick to permit benchdog holes to be made in it and also five” tall. This end-vise had to be positioned at a depth of 3/4″ below the main one, and the guide rods and screw were larger, which meant that the jaws of the end vise had to be at minimum 6-1/2″ tall. They also needed to be 1 1/2″ thick to accommodate benchdog holes and at least 23″ long to cover the entire width that the bench.

The nominal 2×6 dimension lumber is actually 1-1/2×5-1/2″. The local home store I frequent has polished clear oak 2×6 in two-foot lengths for a fair cost per board-foot, however an extremely reasonable cost considering that my local lumberyard does not sell boards in lengths of 2.

The home store did not carry oak 2x8s. But they did stock oak 1x8s in four-foot lengths. Two of them glued together will give me the quantity I needed at a cheaper cost than buying an 8-foot length of 2×8 from the lumberyard.

The process of cutting them apart and then gluing them together is simple. After glue was glued, I cut the top edge of each straight, and then began fitting them.

In Step 30: The Vises Step Four Cutting and Drilling the Jaws

Once we have the material for the jaws of the vise ready, cut it into length with an error margin.

Fix the jaws on the inside in the vise’s end into place, leaving a part to trim in the future, and then insert Dowels and central dowels to pass through the screw and rod holes on the base plate of the vise to mark the location of the guide rod and screw holes inside the jaw. Take the jaw off then drill one-quarter” holes into the marked locations. I utilized the drill guide for most of the holes and then drilled by hand for the final one. When you’re beginning to drill the spade bit inside the deepest hole, like this, you should start the drill slow, so that the spade bit can then move the drill to the perpendicular position. If you start it too quickly, the bit will become stuck and cause damage to parts of your hole.

Make a test of the installation of the vise and then see how the parts fit. The moving portion of the vise ought to be able to move around freely. If it is bound it’s important to pinpoint the location and then widen the hole.

If the holes on the jaw aligned correctly make holes in similar locations on the jaw that is not. I lined the jaw with the drill over the jaw that was not drilled then clamped the jaws down and then drilled approximately 1/4″ into the jaw that was not drilled in order to mark the spot. Then , I removed the jaw that was drilled and then drilled out the locations marked exactly the same way as the first time.

The jaw used in front-facing vises is constructed similarly,. Except that there is only one jaw. The dowel size is 3/4″ as is the spade piece, which has a 7/8″ or 15/16″.

Step 31: The Vises Step Five Routing and Bolting the Jaws

Once you have the vise jaws that are shaped so that the vise is able to move freely make holes and mark them in the fixed jaw to accommodate bolts to secure them to the bench. After drilling these holes, you can rebuild the vise and mark the locations of the holes using an Awl. Remove the vise from its frame and drill holes through the stretcher. Reassemble the vise, and then bolt the jaw’s inner part into place.

When the jaw was fastened to the bench I then employed the router to trim flush the jaw towards the benchtop, along the top, and down sides with the benchtop (stopping just short of the gap between top and legs). I thought this was the most effective method of matching the jaw to the top of the bench, but I’d never try it again. It was a challenge to secure the router against the surface of the jaw and the result was not as level as I thought it would be.

Drill and mark the holes and countersinks to secure the jaws’ outer edges on each vise (for as well the front vise and the final vise).

The jaws should be removed and cut the edges you couldn’t route while they were in place. You can then use a roundover piece on the entire corner with the exception of the edge that is on the jaws that are inside an end vise. Give everything a light smooth sanding and then put Danish oils to the inside jaws’ surfaces. (By “inner areas” I refer to those surfaces that aren’t accessible once the vises have been assembled , for example the inside outer jaw’s surface that bolts onto the bench, and the outside surface of the jaws’ exteriors which bolt to the plates of the vise.)

Make the vises a part, and then attach them to the last time. The vises will not be removed off, so make sure you put everything in place, then connect the endplate to the screws’ ends as well as the guide rods. Mark and drill holes for the benchdog inside the jaws’ outsides that are inline with the holes for benchdogs in the top. The majority of the time, through-holes are used for benchdogs so that they don’t accumulate gunk and sawdust. With these vises that isn’t feasible, as there are guide rods and screws blocking the way. I made the holes just enough to accommodate the Veritas Bench Pony (their reduced-height benchdog) without sinking into a position where I am unable to grab it and remove it. Rockler sells very affordable plastic benches that aren’t adjusted to height they’re not as sturdy as wooden or metal dogs I’m planning to use all the time in order to prevent sawdust from being accumulated in the holes.

After drilling the holes make sure you finish them with a couple of layers with Danish oil.

Then finish the project by applying a layer of paste wax over the top.

Step 32: Fixing the Holes of the Bench Dog

As I mentioned in comment section, in the event that were to repeat this I would not choose MDF for the layer underneath. The original design required 2 layers of MDF however I chose to apply an additional layer of Ikea oak countertop on top of it. I believed at the time that MDF wasn’t strong enough to last in the long run and, as it turned out, I was correct.

The issue I had to deal with is with holdfasts. They work by using the “cantilever pinch” which is dependent for its strength of holding on the tension of the holdfast against the opposite sides of the bottom and top of the hole.

What occurred, as time went on it was that the top of the hole was crushed the MDF and resulted in a holdfast that couldn’t stay in place. Take a look at the first photo.

Then, I turned over the benches upside down (using the same block-and-tackle system I’d built it with) and then screwed strips of wood into the bottom of the bench, covering the holes. After turning it back onto its feet and redrilling the holes into the wood, I found dog holes that could be used using an anchor.

Hardboard is more durable than MDF This means that it will last longer. When it gets crushed it will be simple to replace.

What’s the lesson learned? If you’re planning to use MDF to make a top for your workbench plan it in a way it has a sacrificial hardboard layer at the top and at the bottom.